Sealed With A Kiss Scarf

Hello! Today is a very exciting day for me because I am bringing you a pattern of my very own making for the very first time!

I mentioned last week that a friend of mine recently became engaged to her boyfriend. I am so happy for them. This friend of mine has been a great supporter of my efforts to bring my crochet online and to online networking platforms. A few months back I published an image on Instagram showing my attempt to learn a new stitch. My friend responded that she loved the yarn that I was using and would love a scarf made with it.

Upon hearing the news of her engagement, her request felt like kismet. I had just published my post on how to create the X-Stitch, XO has become a well-known symbol for love and the scarf could count as her “something new” and “something blue.”

My first pattern, Sealed With A Kiss Scarf, for my good friend to celebrate her engagement.



Caron Simply Soft Light Country Blue (1.5 balls)




Yarn/Darning Needle

Stitches & Abbreviations

CH- Chain

XST- X- Stitch

BBL- Bobble Stitch

SC- Single Crochet

DC- Double Crochet

TC- Triple Crochet

SK- Skip

REP- Repeat

(xx)- Stitch Count at the End of a Row


I do not crochet in the slip stitch at the beginning of the chain row.




Chain Four Plus Three (CH 4+ 3)

For my project I Chained 39. (CH 39. Turn.)

Row One

I like to begin projects with a row of stitches before I begin the pattern. I like the look, I think it frames the project, however, if you do not like to have a row of stitches as a frame, skip Row One and proceed to Row Two Option Two.

DC in the 3rd CH from the hook. CH 3 counts as first DC. DC in each CH across. Turn. (36)

Row Two

This is the row of X-Stitches. I created the XST across 4 stitches, that is I skipped 2 stitches between the legs of the X and chained 2 along the top of the X. Please read this blog post to review how to make an X-Stitch.

Ch 6. (Counts as TC and CH). SK Stitch. Begin XST in 3rd DC of Row One. Create 8 XST. CH 2. TC. Turn.

Row Two Option Two
If you want to start your project with a row of X-Stitches.
Begin creating your X in the 6th CH from the hook. Create 8 XST. CH. TC. Turn.

Row Three

This is the row of Bobble Stitches. I created a Bobble Stitch with 13 loops on my hook. Please read this blog post to review how to create a Bobble Stitch.

CH 5. In the CH 2 space at the top of the X, create a Bobble Stitch. CH 3. REP until you have 8 Bobbles made (one for each X). CH 2. DC. Turn.

REP Rows Two and Three until you project is the desired length.
If you began your project with a Row One, REP Row One at the end of your project. Make sure that you end up with 36 DC in this row.


I created a SC border around the whole project. I did not fasten off after the last row of DC, I turned the project and created two SC along the length of the DC. I created 3 SC along the length of the TCs. I continued 2 SC along the side of each DC and 3 SC along the side of each TC. Along the 36 DC Rows at the end of the project, 1 SC into each DC. When you have made it all the way around the edge of the scarf fasten off.

Weave-in your ends.

Ta-Da my first free published pattern!

I have been free form crocheting for so many years, this not the first project that I have designed my own pattern, but it is amazing to write one down.

What do you guys think? I would really appreciate your opinions on the quality of my pattern writing. What could I have done better? Let’s Talk!

Bernat Fin-Tastic Shark Snuggle Sack from Yarnspirations

I had a friend request that I make the Bernat Fin-Tastic Shark Snuggle Sack. This is one of the funkiest things I have ever made and I love it. I had never used Bernat Blanket yarn before. It is very thick and stretchy, perfect for a squishy plush blanket. However, the yarn was very exhausting for my hands. If you have not used this yarn before I suggest giving yourself more time than you think you will need to make your project.

The pattern was designed to be child sized, and my friend ask that I made it to fit an adult. To accommodate this request I used a larger crochet hook. The pattern calls for an US L, I used an US N. I wish that I had sized up my hook to a US P, I think that project would have been even better for an adult. Using the N, the project was tighter than I wanted it to be.

I also needed the project to be longer. To accomplish this I added one row to each decrease section of the tail; the pattern calls for five rows to be made after each decrease row, I made six rows after each decrease row.

To help me with the construction and to better understand the pattern I turned to Mikey at the Crochet Crowd. He has an excellent tutorial for this project. I made this project in the round and not using the join/slip stitch method. It was essential that I use stitch markers during this project. I used one color stitch maker to indicate the rows where there is a decrease. Then I used six different color stitch makers to keep track of the six rows that are created after the decrease row.

In my last post I discussed how valuable learning to increase and decrease stitches is to a crochet maker. I think that this project makes it clearer how powerful this skill is. The taper of the tail and the taper of the shark’s face are made using decrease stitches.

After completing the body of the shark, you will move onto making the details that really make the shark look like a shark.

First you will add red around the mouth. Mikey from the Crochet Crows said that this is like putting lipstick on your shark, and it really felt like that.

The next step is to add the teeth. I wanted the teeth to be extra funky, so I sized up my hook from the US N to a US P. I like how scraggly they look.

Then I made the eyes, fin and tail, connected them and that was that. The project took me about 22 hours, 6 more than what Mikey said it took him to make it. I did have two hours worth of work that I had to frog because I missed two stitches. This yarn is thick and the missed stitches created half-dollar size holes in the project. Once again I am reminded how important it is to count while crocheting.

What do you think of the shark? Want to make one yourself? Getting ready for Shark Week? Let’s Talk!

Sand and Sea Baby Blanket

The past few years whenever someone asks me what I want as a gift, I almost always answer, “Yarn.” There was a time when I did not want others to buy me yarn, I was worried that they would not get me a yarn that I liked or a yarn that I could use. Now, I find it intriguing to see what kind of yarn people buy for me and what color(s) it is.

Easter 2017 my mom bought me this beautiful basket and filled it with yarn. I was so happy. As is often the case with yarn in my life, I can have the yarn in my house for over a year before I figure out its perfect project. The perfect project for this variegated yarn came from my mom. She asked me to make a baby blanket for one of her co-workers.

The variegated yarn, Sugarspun, is now a discontinued line of Loops and Threads from Michael’s. My mom only goes to the craft store with me, or when I ask, that means she does not buy yarn often. My mom does not know how much yarn you need to buy to make a project, she does not know anything about dye lots, she does not know yarn weights. At one point this would have frustrated me and I probably would not have used the yarn she bought, but now, it is a challenge.

I had already begun making the blanket when I wandered back to Michael’s to see if I could get more of the Sugarspun yarn, realizing that I could not buy more of it, I looked around, thinking about what I could do to finish the project. I remembered seeing blankets on the internet where people had crocheted a beach scene, and I thought I would use that as inspiration, after all, I had already created the wavy watery area.

The coloring of the Suparspun yarn being blue, green and yellow, I wanted to find a yellow or a green that matched. I thought with yellow it would look like the ocean and with green it would look like a pond. I found this yellow, it is Bernat Softee Baby. The yarns are not the exact same thickness but they are close enough for comfort.


The pattern that I am using is from “101 Crochet Stitch Patterns & Edgings” by Annie’s Crochet. This kind of project, where there are waves, is a Ripple Crochet project. Ripple Crochet projects can be made using a variety of stitches, but the most common stitch used is a Double Crochet stitch. I think that Double Crochet stitches create a nicer increase and decrease than other stitches; the waves in the Ripples are created by increasing and decreasing stitches. I think this is why Double Crochet stitches are preferred in Ripple Crochet projects.


To create an increase in a project, you can crochet multiple stitches, or a combination of stitches and chains, into one stitch or space. This project has a two row pattern repeat, this means that everyone other row is created using the same combination of stitches.

For the increase in one row, one Double Crochet stitch is made in the space, three chains are made, then a second Double Crochet stitch is made in the same space.

For the increase in the other row, two Double Crochet stitches are made in the space, three chains are made, then two more Double Crochet stitches are made in the same space.


To create a decrease in a project, you crochet incomplete stitches across multiple stitches and then complete them as one stitch.

The decrease in this project extends across three stitches. Yarn-over, insert hook, Yarn-Over, Pull-Up, Pull-Through two loops. Two loops will remain on your hook.
Yarn-Over, insert hook, Yarn-Over, Pull-Up, Pull-Through two loops. Three loops will remain on your hook.
Yarn-Over, insert hook, Yarn-Over, Pull-Up, Pull-Through two loops. Four loops will remain on your hook.
Yarn-Over and Pull-Through all four loops on hook.


Increases and Decreases are important skills to add to your crochet repertoire. Do you like to make Ripple Crochet projects? Have a favorite Ripple Crochet pattern? Let’s Talk!

How to Create a Y Stitch


I am back again today to walk you through one of last common stitches, the Y Stitch. Just like the X Stitch looks like the letter X, this stitch looks like the letter Y. The Y Stitch creates a tall stitch with lots of space between the stitches, which is great for summer crochet clothing.

To make it easier to see how to make this stitch I have crocheted a row of Double Crochet stitches that I will build the Y Stitch onto. The Y Stitch is created in a Triple Crochet Row. You can create the Triple Crochets as close to or as far away from the Y Stitch as you would like. If you want more space between your Y Stitches, chain and skip the same number of stitches.

You will begin making the Y with a Triple Crochet.

Next you will need to create 2 Chains.

To create the upper left arm of the Y you will need to find the middle of the Triple Crochet Stitch. Create a Double Crochet- Yarn-Over, insert hook into the middle of the Triple Crochet.

Yarn-Over, Pull-Up.

Yarn-Over, Pull-Through two loops.

Yarn-Over, Pull-Through two loops.

Ta-da! You have created a Y Stitch.

This stitch was easier to learn that I thought it was going to be. What do you think? Easy? Hard? Not sure how to use the stitch in a pattern? Well, now that we have reviewed the basic stitches I am going to show you some projects that I have made and that you can make with these stitches!

How to Create the X Stitch

Hello all!

How has everyone been? I took a few weeks away but I have returned to bring you more crochet goodness. While I was away I finished the semester. I did well and I am on track to graduate in December! A friend came down from Seattle to visit. A friend got engaged. It has been an exciting two weeks.

Before I left I was working us through common crochet stitches. There are just a few more of these stitches to get through and then we will start working on projects using these stitches. Today I will show you how to make an X Stitch. In my last post we reviewed the Crossed Stitch. To some the Crossed Stitch may look like an X, I think that the Crossed Stitch kind of looks like when you cross your fingers, but the stitch I am going to show you today much more clearly resembles an X.

You can start an X Stitch into the starting chains, but I like to work a row of double crochet stitches as my first row.

The X Stitch I am working here is the height of a Triple Crochet, and I am working this X Stitch with a 2-Chain Space, this will help you decide how many Chains you need to create in your Starting Chain. My X’s are four stitches wide, plus the Chains to count as the first Triple Crochet and the Triple Crochet Stitch at the end of the row. The X Stitch is very flexible, you can make the X Stitch the height of a Double Crochet, you can create the Stitch with a 3 or more Chain Space, but the version that I will show you today is the most common version of the X Stitch.

After creating the row of Double Crochet stitches, I chained up 5. The chains will count as the first Triple Crochet stitch of the row.

Because this X Stitch is the height of a Triple Crochet stitch, to begin this X we are going to Yarn-Over the hook twice.

Then we are going to insert our hook into the second Double Crochet of the row below. Remember the chains count as a Triple Crochet.

After inserting the hook into the stitch, Yarn-Over and Pull-Up. You will have four loops on your hook at this point. You will now need to Yarn-Over and Pull-Through the first two loops.

This will leave you will three loops on your hook. You will not work through these loops now. At this stage we are going move onto the second leg of the X.

As I mentioned, I am making this X with a 2-Chain Space. This means that I am going to skip two stitches (or chains if you did not create a Double Crochet row) and begin my second leg in the third stitch from my first leg.

Begin this leg like a Double Crochet stitch. Yarn-Over, insert your hook into the designated stitch, Yarn-Over, Pull-Through.

To finish off this part of the X you will Yarn-Over and Pull-Through two loops.

Yarn-Over and Pull-Through the next two loops.

Continue to Yarn-Over and Pull-Through two loops until you have one loop remaining on your hook.

Now you will need to chain stitches. You need to chain the same number of stitches that you skipped. I skipped two stitches so I will need to chain two stitches.

This is the final stage of the X, the upper left arm. We have made the bottom of the X and the upper right arm, if you are following this, then you can see that we need to create the last arm from the middle of the X. At the top of the two legs, find the two loops, Yarn-Over and then insert your hook under those two loops. Work this stitch as a Double Crochet stitch.

Ta-da, you have made an X Stitch!

You can begin working your next X in the same stitch that you just finished this X or you can begin the X in the next stitch (this is my preferred method and the one shown in the picture below). If you want to put more space between your X’s you will need to chain, the same number of stitches you intend to skip.

Have you used an X stitch in your projects? Do you have a stitch you would like for me to show you? Let’s Talk!

Crossed Stitch

This is one of my favorite stitches that I learned this last year. I know that as a basic crochet stitch I probably should have learned this earlier, but better late than never. The Crossed Stitch, not to be confused with cross-stitch, is created by crocheting a Double Crochet or Triple Crochet stitch, then crocheting behind that stitch, back into skipped stitches/chains. It is a bit complicated, but once you get it you will never understand why you thought it was so complicated in the first place.

I am going to show you Triple Crochet Crossed Stitches. You can start a Crossed Stitch with chains, but I like to anchor my Crossed Stitches (and most of my ‘looser’ stitches) with foundation stitches (DC/TC) at the beginning and ending of the rows. This means that I like two stitches at the beginning and ending of the rows and not the one created by the chains.

Chain a multiple of 3 plus 7.

The Crossed Stitches take up three chains (the multiple) You will need four chains for your starting Triple Crochet, and the remaining three chains are for the anchor Triple Crochet Stitches. If you intend on only crocheting one anchor at the beginning and the ending of the row you will chain a multiple of 3 plus 5.

With my chain of 31 (24 + 7), I created my first Triple Crochet in the fifth chain from the hook.

To begin the Crossed Stitch, skip two chains.

Create a Triple Crochet in the third chain.

If you like the look of one stitch at the beginning and ending of the rows, begin your Crossed Stitch in the sixth chain from the hook and continue working the stitch from here forward.


After completing the Triple Crochet, Chain one.

You will now create a Triple Crochet behind the first Triple Crochet. Skip one chain, i.e. crochet back, into the first of the two skipped chains.

You should now have your second Triple Crochet, a skipped chain, and your first Triple Crochet, in that order from right to left.

To create another Crossed Stitch, skip two chains, create a Triple Crochet in the third chain.

The second Triple Crochet of your second Crossed Stitch should end up in the chain next to the first Triple Crochet of your first Crossed Stitch.


Some patterns may request that you end and begin the Crossed Stitches in the same chains. This is not consistent with that I have reviewed here. Read the pattern carefully. Make sure you count your stitches carefully.


Ta-da, the Crossed Stitch.

I love this stitch! What do you think? What is your favorite stitch? Let’s Talk!

Cluster Stitch

Marching forward on our learn the basic crochet stitches road, today I have for you the Cluster Stitch. The Cluster Stitch is like the Puff Stitch. Where as the Puff Stitch is worked in one stitch, the Cluster Stitch is worked across four stitches. Working across multiple stitches will create a puckered look in this stitch, instead of the popped look of the Puff Stitch.

We are going to start this stitch the same way that we did the Puff Stitch, with an incomplete Double Crochet. YO, pull-up, YO, pull-through, leaving two loops on your hook.


Now this is where the Cluster differs from the Puff. We are going to create an incomplete Double Crochet in the next stitch, not the same stitch.



YO, pull-up, YO, pull through the first two loops.



You should have three loops on your hook.



Now, you are going to move to the next stitch, and create an incomplete Double Crochet in that stitch too.



YO, pull-up, YO, pull through the first two loops.



You should now have four loops on your hook.



Now, you are going to move to the next stitch, and create an incomplete Double Crochet in that stitch too. This will be our final incomplete Double Crochet.



YO, pull-up, YO, pull through the first two loops.



You should now have five loops on your hook. You are now going to YO and pull through all five loops on your hook.



Ta-da, the Cluster Stitch.

The Cluster Stitch is the first stitch that we have reviewed that decreased your stitch count. By this I mean that we created four stitches across four stitches, but then pulled through to make them only “one” stitch. When you are using this in a project ensure that you watch the stitch counts in your rows.

Do you use a Cluster Stitch when you crochet? Do you have another decreasing stitch you prefer? Let’s Talk!

Puff Stitch

As we continue to learn basic crochet stitches today we will review how to make a Puff Stitch. A Puff Stitch is similar to the Popcorn Stitch and the Bobble Stitch, if you combine them. That is, you make the Puff Stitch in the same stitch, like we did with the Bobble Stitch, but we are creating individual stitches and then “connect” them, like we did with the Popcorn Stitch.

We are going to create Double Crochet Puff Stitches today, but you can create Puff Stitches using Double Crochet or Triple Crochet. We are going to start by creating the first half of a Double Crochet, by kind of making an incomplete Half-Double Crochet.

Puff Stitches can be made at any point in a pattern, just ensure you are not making them at the beginning of the row or the last stitch of the row because the stitches will make your edges look uneven.

Once you have chosen where you are going to create your Puff Stitch. Yarn-over (YO) insert your hook into that stitch and pull-up, YO and pull through. This creates the first half of the Double Crochet or the incomplete Half-Double Crochet that I was talking about earlier.

Now we are going to repeat this again in the same stitch.

YO, pull-up, YO, and pull through. You will now have two incomplete stitches on your hook, and three loops.

Repeat once more. YO, pull-up, YO, pull through. Now there are three incomplete stitches on your hook, four loops. You can stop here and make a smaller Puff Stitch.

YO and pull through all four loops on your hook.

Ta-Da, little Puff Stitch created.

If you want to create a larger Puff Stitch, you can Repeat, YO, pull-up, YO- pull through.
You will now have four incomplete stitches on your hook, five loops on your hook. You can stop here, YO and pull through all five loops.

Or you can make your Puff Stitch even puffier and Repeat once more. YO, pull-up, YO pull through. Now you will have five incomplete stitches on your hook, six loops total. Stop here, YO and pull through all six loops on your hook.

Here you can see what the different size Puff Stitches look like. The Puff Stitch on the left is the smallest puff and the Puff Stitch on the right is our largest. My preference is the third Puff Stitches.

Do you like to crochet with Puff Stitches? Do you have a preferred Puff Stitch size? Have another stitch you would like me to show you? Let’s Talk!