Basket(weave) Stitch

I want to continue today with front-post and back-post double crochet stitch patterns. As I have explained, to become excellent at any stitch you need to practice and I like to practice by learning variations. We have discussed how to create rib and waffle stitches using front-post and back-post double crochet, today we are going to review the Basket Stitch or Basket Weave Stitch.

The Basket Stitch is great for so many projects, but especially for projects where you want the pattern on both sides of the project.

The Waffle Stitch creates a pattern on one side of the project, this is great for pillow cases, blankets, beanies, but is not as dynamic on a scarf. The Basket Stitch is perfect if you are looking for a more dynamic stitch.

The Basket Stitch is so named because the finished project looks like a woven basket.

With this stitch, front-post and back-post double crochets are grouped, usually in sets of four wide stitches wide by five rows high. By this I am not implying that you create this pattern in squares and connect them, you will work down the row in the traditional fashion.

When you are creating this stitch, more than with the other stitches I have reviewed in the past few weeks, you must be vigilant with your counts, fortunately, the stitch will show you when you have messed up. This is the first stitch where you might want to break out the stitch markers to help you keep count.


Yarn: Medium (4) Weight Yarn- Here I have used Vanna’s Choice

Hook: The recommended hook size for the yarn- Here I used a Boye- J-10/6.00MM

Yarn Needle/Darning Needle


Stitch Markers (optional)

Stitches & Abbreviations:

CH- Chain

DC- Double Crochet

FPDC- Front-post Double Crochet

BPDC- Back-post Double Crochet

REP- Repeat

( )- Total Stitch Count at the End of the Row


Chain multiples of 4


I use 2 Chains to create the first Double Crochet on every row, except for Row One

Make only one Stitch in the Stitch below unless specifically instructed to create more than one Stitch.

Each row will end in a DC.

I do not crochet in the slip knot at the beginning of the chain row.


CH 40. Turn.

R1: Count 3 CH as first DC, DC in 4th CH from hook. DC in next 35. (36 DC) Turn.

R2: Ch 2 (Count as first DC). 3 FPDC.4 BPDC. 4 FPDC. 4 BPDC. 4 FPDC. 3 BPDC. DC in the last stitch.

R3: Ch 2 (Count as first DC). 3 BPDC.4 FPDC. 4 BPDC. 4 FPDC. 4 BPDC. 3 FPDC. DC in the last stitch.

R4: REP R2.

R5: REP R3.

R6: REP R2.

(You have created your first set of “weave”. As you switch from FPDC to BPDC you kept the weave in each group on the same side of the project. Next you will reverse your weave and reverse your steps)

R7: REP R2.

R8: REP R3.

R9: REP R2.

R10: REP R3.

R11: REP R2.

(You have completed your second set of “weave”. You should now have two sets of squares completed that face opposite directions. Now you will repeat.)

REP R2-R11 until your project is as long as you want it to be.

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

I like my Basket Stitch projects to be squares and while this is my favorite variation of the Basket Stitch, you can create 2×2 weaves, 6×6 weaves, 8×8 weaves, or you can create rectangular weaves (keep them in multiples of two or four for the best results).

Do you have a favorite Basket Stitch variation you like to use? Have other front-post and back-post stitch variations that you would like to learn? Let’s talk.

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